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Day 27, West Sea Dam at Nampho, U.S. spy boat "Pueblo"

The Koreans call the West Sea Yellow Sea. In the mouth of the Taedong in this sea in Namp'o in the years 1981 to 1986, three Army divisions, then built the largest dam in the world. The so-called West Sea Barrage consists of an 8-kilometer-long dam, three locks for ships up to 50,000 gross tons, 36 sluices and a viewing platform in a museum building anchor shape.

The dam is used primarily as a watershed between the sea and river water, as a fast road and rail link between the north and south banks of the Taedong as well as a physical barrier the river mouth. He kept the region far north as Pyongyang from possible floods, the boat traffic makes regardless of the strong tides and serves on the availability of fresh water for industry and water supply schemes in the region.

We visit a mineral water source in which the water is also bottled. The director of the factory told that are being produced so many bottles a day. The detective makes like wild notes in his small block and said brightly, but in a conspiratorial tone, that the number does not agree that it is far lower. He has stopped time, counted the bottles that run in this time of the assembly line and then extrapolated. I just nod and irritated looking into the distance.

are, as always eat it too much, we can half stand. I think of the people who collect the nuts out on the street. The group is composed with one exception only of men and still resembles a pile of laundry women. A rumor making the rounds. Our tour leader with the earlier assistant was seen running, someone they have kept secret hands, another has as it is compressed in a kind of together, they would not allow, though, if they do not share non-existent goods and chattels . We visit the war museum. Half-truths, outright lies, romanticized war stories, which are one as a budding historian's hair on end. A basement full of conquered, American Weapons, tanks, helicopters, airplanes and as climax a heartfelt letter of apology from downed, American helicopter pilot.

then visited by a huge war memorial and finally the American spy ship "Pueblo".

The USS Pueblo (AGER-2) is a scout ship of the U.S. Navy, which has acquired in 1968 by the capture by the North Korean navy special celebrity. It is still owned by North Korea and is the world's only ship in the U.S. Navy, which is in the hands of a foreign power.

The Pueblo was taken to the North Korean port of Wonsan. The crew was taken to prison camps, where abused and tortured by their own information. The treatment got worse when the North Koreans realized that later members of the crew staged propaganda photos on their guards behind their backs with the vilified in Germany as a middle finger gesture known. The photos were published by the North Koreans on the ground that the crew would overflow.

The USS Pueblo was first in the public Wŏnsan made available. In November 1998 North Korea was able to convert the ship well camouflaged on the sea around the Korean peninsula to the capital Pyongyang. She is now in the local port and is one of the biggest tourist attractions and propaganda of North Korea.

Bayern and I hang on the lips of the great sailor and nod studiously, the detective wrote down serial numbers of the American GPS.

 

Wir besuchen ein authentisches, von der Bevölkerung sicher häufig frequentiertes Kaufhaus, voll mit europäischen Produkten, von Sauerkraut über Coca Cola bis zu Bockwurst ist alles vorhanden. Ich kaufe Leibniz Butterkekse, die auch hier 52 Zähne haben.

Der Detektiv spricht mich an und ich will schon unter einem Excuse to run away, because I think he wants to tell me that the biscuits were actually made in China or something like that, but when I ask him about his travels, he replies that beauty is to travel its simplicity. At home we have mortgages, commitments, life feeds on one. When traveling is all manageable, fits in a backpack, you have solvable problems, eating, sleeping, visa, ticket.

discover on the way back we find that the shops are dark but not closed. Yvott, the South African fast, still for the souls of the North Koreans to save the stimulation and noise, which can not handle me, is another Day in North Korea to end.

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day 26, Demilitarized Zone between North Korea and South Korea

We drive out through the empty streets of Pyongyang. People gather nuts from the trees in the park, fishing in the river, work on the field, patrolling children singing in the streets.

from a James Bond film produced, I ask myself the DMZ in front of a giant minefield, soldiers with hovercrafts, explosive-laden and full of bridges. The reality is far less spectacular, a sleepy border post, but with massive, meter-thick gates, then drive through the countryside, where farmers have their fields behind barbed wire. The border post is a certain comic, blue barracks, half an hour visited by tourists in North Korea, then half an hour from those in South Korea, it's like looking in a mirror. In the distance you can see the mast with the South Korean Flag outside the barracks South Korean soldiers, who look with their guns and armored suits against our soldiers almost futuristic.

the evening, one of the many schedule changes. We go for the first time in the night and still with a rural area. Probably inadvertently, we see the everyday lives of North Koreans. Dark streets, semi-legal street markets, bustling with activity, people who flit like ghosts through the streets.

Scheinbar endlos fahren wir durch die Nacht und einen Moment lang denke ich, dass uns nie jemand finden würde, wenn die Regierung beschliessen würde, uns verschwinden zu lassen. Die Handys und alle anderen Geräte, die als Peilsender dienen könnten, wurden konfisziert. Mitten in der Nacht kommen wir in einer riesigen Hotelanlage an, die aus vielen kleinen Bungalows besteht. Normalerweise werden hier Staatsgäste und ihre Konkubinen einquartiert, aber all zu viele davon hat Nordkorea nicht, also sind wir hier. Die Bungalows sind in altem Luxus gehalten, eine riesige Badewanne soll spezielles, gesundes Wasser liefern. Ich sitze mit meinen zwei Bayern im Zimmer, wir trinken, I make jokes about what last night in the Honeymoon Suite will happen either, according to the motto "what happens in North Korea stays in North Korea" until we finally into a religious basis for discussion to drift, leading as always in a dead end. In the night I'm starting a cockroach and a dragonfly, which is so great that sounds its wings as if a helicopter in the room

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Day 25 Part 2, Arirang Festival, Pyongyang

The main reason follows for my trip in the evening, the Arirang Festival , is a North Korean mass meeting to be held in Rŭngnado-May-Day Stadium in Pyongyang, and named after the ancient Korean folk song Arirang is:

The Arirang Festival shows the history of North Korea by means of mass and mass gymnastics and dance will take place at irregular intervals. At the event, depending on their year with most of over 100,000 people. Are simulated in a precise mass choreography on the lawn episodes both from the revolutionary past, such as the deeds of the two leader, Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il, and the great from the North Korean point of view of development of the present. In the stands behind the dance, or gymnastics formations sit tens of thousands of other participants, the color of individual paperboard riesige Bilder nachzeichnen, die den Effekt ähnlich einer Großbildleinwand haben. 
Die zehntausenden Mitwirkenden im Hintergrund sind dieses Jahr übrigens ausnahmslos Kinder.

100'000 Darsteller, 20'000 Kinder, welche mit einzelnen Schildern den Hintergrund liefern und 150'000 Zuschauer, die grösste Veranstaltung der World. We should really only come here on the penultimate day, but then apparently Kim Jong Il Kim Jong Un is with his son, newly appointed General of his character and designated successor to the beloved leader , the stadium and there are no tourists allowed.

I'm only here for two days, but I have been struggling to sort out my impressions and to process, the timetable is tight, seven-clock in the morning until seven at night clock, statues, pictures , birthplaces, monuments, museums, dancing children and no less confusing in contrast, Alltag, der sich nicht grossartig von dem in anderen asiatischen Städten unterscheidet, beinahe langweilig, normal ist. Am Abend dann Bierzeltstimmung mit den Deutschen im Hotel, was bei mir nach drei Wochen Unabhängigkeit im Zug und Sprachbarriere zusammen eine totale Reizüberflutung auslöst. Während die Massen jubeln und die Tänzer tanzen, sitzt neben mir ein massiger Kölner, der mir wegen seiner verwirrten, tolpatschigen, stotternden Art schon früher aufgefallen ist und die kleine Führerin, der die Bayern den Namen „Kim Stasi“ gegeben haben. Der Kölner ist ziemlich erkältet und schneuzt so laut und dazu noch in meine Richtung, dass ich mich angewidert abwende, Kim Stasi sieht das und bursts into laughter and childish and I can not even laugh. Every time he blows his nose, each time louder and more repulsive as it seems, the more laughter and reaches the climax when he asks what we are laughing at. Stasi Kim is still in training and this is her first internship, we probably seem just as weird and foreign to her as their country to us, at least it also works on a Glitch.

Outside the stadium, one the scale of the masses aware of the fact, a sea of uniforms, North Korea has the relatively largest army in the world, 30% of GDP for them spent in total, have over a million soldiers are on standby. We have heard from various quarters that the weapons are outdated and there in North Korea almost no oil, there would be quite difficult to win a war on the ground.

The group is welded to a community, we are open every day 10, 12 hours together, see, eat the same time they are viewed strangely . In the evening we again plenty of food and beer, I tell the story of the empty Beijing Restaurant, where work on the 15 men and one of the employees all day does nothing other than flying to clap. The Vienna court fills in the score sheet for the female attendants, moves to big guns, "charming", "lovely" "Beautiful". Someone said he should write his room number still the same underneath. Laughter. Slowly, that is normal here.